Monday, April 16, 2018

Spring and your evergreens

 One of the first signs of how tough the winter has been is the color of our evergreens.  A lot of the cedars, spruce and pines around the city are a lovely shade of brown.  Most people’s first reaction is that the plant is dead.  This is most likely not the case.  The buds for this years growth will still be alive, they are just waiting for some heat to start growing.  Once the new growth flushes out it will cover up the brown needles.  To help the process along you need to start fertilizing and watering your evergreens as soon as the snow is gone.   A fertilizer that is high in Nitrogen (the first number on the formula) is the best.  An Evergreen Food with the formula 30-10-10 is an excellent source of nitrogen.  Soak the soil that is around the plant to feed the roots.  For best results apply the fertilizer every two weeks throughout May and June.  As an extra boost you can also spray the foliage with Organique’s Biofish.  This should be done once the ground has thawed.  As for watering, a deep watering every week unless it rains.
Susan Jensen Stubbe
Posted by Tammy Jensen at 10:10 AM 0 Comments

Monday, September 14, 2015


Planting fall bulbs are a great way to bring blooms to your garden in the spring.  When choosing which ones to plant, try to mix all the blooming times - early, mid and late spring.  You can choose from tulips, daffodils, hyacinth, alliums and scilla.
The bulbs should be planted in a sunny location to receive at least 6 hours of sun.  But 8 - 10 hours would give you the best flowering.
They should be planted about 3 times as deep as the height of the bulb, but an inch or two deeper will give them extra protection.  You can add bulb fertilizer or bone meal at this time.  After blooming, remove the faded flowers so they don’t go to seed.  Let the foliage yellow and die back naturally so that energy goes back into the bulb for next year.
Naturalizing refers to a process by which you plant self-propagating bulbs in an informal setting.  They will require little or no human care, and will produce their own garden.

Tulips are probably the most popular fall bulb.  We have ordered five different types this year.

Darwin - are the longest living tulips with the largest flowers.
            - have tall, strong stems and strong petals that withstand wind and rain

Fosteriana - one of the earliest tulips to bloom
                  - have very wide flowers on strong stems

Lily flowering - blooms have pointed tips and very strong stems

Botanical - create a very natural look as they come from a wild species
                - some of the longest flowering tulips
                - a great choice for naturalizing

Double Peony - generally bloom in late spring with short, sturdy stems

There are other varieties of fall bulbs you can choose from.  Mixing these in to your tulip garden would be lovely.

Scilla - referred to as “glory of the snow”

         - bloom in very early spring and are extremely hardy
     - blooms usually last a few weeks
     - beautiful in a rock garden or in mass plantings

Muscari  - or Grape hyacinth
               - blooms last forever and are very fragrant
              - a shorter bloom to go in front of tulips
              - deer resistant

Trumpet Narcissus
- the most traditional daffodil
   - single stemmed, with big trumpets
      - deer resistant

Allium - belong to the onion family
      - easy to grow and long lived
         - deer resistant

It is a great time to do some planting - including fall bulbs.  Just when most everything in your garden is finished you can have some fun making a new spectacular spring garden.

Posted by Tammy Jensen at 3:57 PM 0 Comments

Wednesday, March 11, 2015

Starting Seeds Indoors

 Starting Seeds Indoors 
Ah the snow is finally melting; the streets and cars are full on grime.  Everyone is walking a little lighter, smiling a little more and the neighbours are emerging from their dens.  In the cold of winter it seems our greetings become a quick wave or grunt in passing.  Now I look up and down or street and there are little gatherings of people talking about the spring.   
When: It’s a great time to start planning you vegetable garden and gathering your supplies to start seeding inside.  The best time to seed inside is the end of March to mid April. seedlings, planting seeds indoors, seeding in winnipeg, seeds for sale in winnipeg
Which Seed: Which seeds should I be starting you ask.  The best ones are Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Leeks, Kohlrabi,  Peppers and Tomatoes.  You can try other seeds but most will germinate and establish quite quickly when directly sown into the ground.  Most of your root vegetables won’t transplant well, thus they have to be sown directly.  Also let’s not forget fresh herbs. 
Pots and Containers: Seeds are best planted in individual pots or trays with individual cells to make transplanting easy.  You can use plastic or peat pots, yogurt containers and egg cartons.  Almost any container will work but make sure there are drainage holes in the bottom.  Seeds and young seedlings don’t like to have wet feet.  If you are reusing plastic pots be sure to soak them in warm water and bleach at a rate of 9 parts water to 1part bleach to kill any pathogens or bacteria that is present. 
Soil Mixture: A nice sterilized peat mixture is a great soil to seed in.  Such as Premier Pro Mix Potting and Seeding Mix.  In a larger container, such as a rubber maid container place you soil and add water to moisten it.  You want it to be moist but not dripping wet.  Fill your containers to ¼” below the top and pat it down.  Place two or three seeds in each container and then cover with soil.  To water the seed I like to use a spray bottle.  A watering can be too forceful and wash the seeds out of the container. 
Where and Watering: Place the pots in a sunny warm location.  On top of your fridge is an excellent warm spot.  Keep the soil 
moist.  As the seedling grows it is a good idea to let the top layer of soil dry out between watering.  This will help prevent the plants from rotting or damping off. 
Thinning Out: Once the seedlings have started to grow it is best to thin them out so that you leave the strongest growing one in the container. 
Hardening Off: As we approach the transplanting time, which is usually End of May beginning of June in Manitoba, you will need to harden your plants off.  To take them directly outside and plant into the garden would be shock for most plants.  Hardening off is quite easy.  A week before you plan to transplant the plants you need to move them outside into a sheltered spot of a little bit each day.  Start with a two hour period the first day and increase it one hour a day for the rest of the week. 
Planting Out: Make sure the plants are thoroughly moist a few hours before transplanting.  This will help the soil stay on the roots.  The best time to transplant is on a cloudy day, late in the afternoon.  This will allow the plants to get use to their surrounding before the hot sun is on them.  Gently tip the plants and take them out of their pots taking as much of the soil as you can.  Place them into a hole that is slightly larger than the pot.  Lightly pack the soil around them and water in.  Continue watering daily until new grow appears.  At this stage let the soil slightly dry between watering. 
Susan Jensen Stubbe 
Posted by Tammy Jensen at 10:38 AM 0 Comments

Monday, October 06, 2014

The Creatures of Fall

 Well it’s that time of year again.  The leaves have turned and are starting to fall off the trees.  As my family and I walked thru
Bois-des-esprits Forest (At  St.Annes and Shorehill Rd)to visit the spirit tree, we see a family of deer running thru the forest. 
Soon the deer, rabbits and small critters like mice and voles will be looking for new sources of food.  Once the leaves are gone 
and the grass is covered by snow these animals will turn to the next closest source.  Which is usually our valued trees and shrubs.  
So before the snow comes you need to protect your plants.  Applying skoot is one of the best methods to protect your plants.
Skoot is a repellent that was developed to taste bad to the animals, after one taste they won't come back for more.  It is can be 
applied  once the trees and shrubs are dormant.  But before it gets below zero during the day time.
You can apply Skoot by painting the undiluted product directly on the bark or by diluting it with equal parts of water and 
spraying it on the plants using a pump sprayer.  This is the easiest way by far.
For shrubs, you want to apply a light spray of Skoot starting at the base of the plant and going approximately four to five feet high.
You have to picture how high up can a rabbit reach when it is sitting on top of the snow in mid winter.  
For trees you want a light spray on all sides of the trunk and on the lower branches again in the 4-5 ft range.  Make sure that you get 
all sides of the trunk.  
SKOOT Repellent for Rabbits, Mice and Deer concentrate when applied, will protect on an 
average the following number of plants, according to size: 
 Age Approx. Height Trees/litre 
 1yr. 0.3-0.5 metres 250-400 
 2yr. 0.5-1.0 metres 125-200 
 3yr. 1.0-2.0 metres 60-100 
 4yr. 1.0-2.5 metres 40-60 
 5yr. 2.0-4.0 metres 20-40
 Drop by the garden centre and we can help you with all your fall gardening questions.
Posted by Tammy Jensen at 9:08 AM 0 Comments

Monday, May 26, 2014

The Best Mojito Recipe

 Well, we have had one of the busiest weekends ever. It is my turn to write the blog this week, and this is the recipe that a lot of people have asked about. I think summer is just about here and this should get you ready.
The Best Mojito Recipe
Muddle 1/2 a lime with 16 mint leaves in a tall glass (spearmint works great).
Add 1 1/2 oz. Rum and 2 tbsp. Simple Syrup
Fill glass with ice cubes and top with club soda.
Garnish with a slice of lime and a mint sprig. 
Simple Syrup
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup water
Boil on stove until dissolved. I keep mine in a jar in the fridge.
We have lots of varieties of mint at Jensen’s. Try them out and see which one you like best for your Mojito - Pineapple, Apple, Spearmint and Peppermint. I have also used Citrus Rum. 
See you soon,
Posted by Tammy Jensen at 2:15 PM 0 Comments

Wednesday, May 21, 2014

Tomato School

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There are two kinds of tomato plants: determinate and indeterminate.  Determinate plants grow well in a cage and do not need pruning.  Indeterminate plants need to be pruned, staked and usually have heavier yields.  
Tomatoes are heavy feeders - a spike or granular fertilizer at the time of planting with a small amount of water soluble fertilizer at each watering.  The fertilizer should have a low first number - nitrogen.  You should provide consistent deep watering at the roots, rather than the foliage.  It is best to cage a tomato plant to allow for better ripening, use of space and to keep the plant off the ground.  
Only prune indeterminate plants by pinching small suckers above the leaf branch.  You will do this only once.  You can also pinch off some of the flowers to let the plant grow bigger, riper tomatoes.  
To ripen green tomatoes, layer singly between sheets of newspaper in a dark box or place inside a bag with an apple.  The apple releases ethylene gas which enhances ripening.
There can be some problems when growing tomatoes.  Cracking can be caused by fast growth and can be controlled by consistent watering.  Blossom end rot can be caused by irregular or inadequate watering and a calcium deficiency.  Use a low nitrogen fertilizer to help the plant absorb calcium.  Lots of nitrogen in the soil will draw the calcium away from the plant.
Lois Hole suggests the following tomatoes:  Big Beef, Super Fantastic and Early Girl (Indeterminate) and Celebrity and Tumbler (Determinate).
Posted by Tammy Jensen at 12:00 AM 0 Comments

Monday, May 12, 2014

Pruning Spring Flowering Shrubs

As the spring has finally arrived and your spring flowering shrubs start to bloom, you might start to wonder, when should I prune these shrubs.  Spring flowering Shrubs such as Forsythia, Double flowering Plum, Lilac, rhododendrons and Azaleas flower on old wood.  If you prune them in the fall or early spring you will be cutting off the flower buds, thus giving you very little show.  The best time to prune these shrubs is right after they flower.
When pruning you should remove approximately 1/3 of the shrub each year,   this will give you a healthy plant and the best show.  Start this process by removing dead or broken branches right to the ground.  Then you remove the oldest, thickest canes with to the ground.  At this point you may be close to the desired 1/3 removal.  The remaining branches you remove should be chosen to give you the desired shape and height you want.   Also remove any spent flowers, this will allow the plant to give its energy to growing rather than producing seed.
Occasionally you have a shrub that is very over grown and woody that flowers very little.  Normal pruning does not always fix the problem.  That is when I would suggest doing a rejuvenation pruning.  To do this you remove all the branches of the plant leaving only 2-4” of the shrub at the ground.  This is best done in early spring before the leaves come out.  Thus you will have to sacrifice the flowers for that season but it will be worth it in the end.
The following shrubs can handle this type of pruning.  Potentilla, Dogwood, Lilacs, Hydrangea, Honeysuckle, Mockorange, Weigelia, Viburnum (Cranberries), and Elders.
Pruning - Thinning - Picture 1
Pruning Rejuvenation - Picture 2

Pruning - thinningRejuvenation pruning
Posted by Tammy Jensen at 3:15 PM 0 Comments

Monday, April 28, 2014

Spring is here!

 Wow….I think Spring is finally here! The chill in the air is gone and the sun feels very warm. Our greenhouse is incredible right now, blooms and leaves everywhere.The first shipment of trees and shrubs came in today.One of the new hydrangeas appeared - Sweet Summer, and a new weigela - Sonic Bloom!  
At this time of year it is important to start watching your trees or shrubs for the first signs of spring. When the plant is still dormant and the leaf buds do not show any sign of green, it is time to use Dormant Oil. It is a spray that you mix yourself, using Horticultural oil and Lime Sulphur. It can be used when the temperature stays above freezing for 24 hours. This product will control insects - scale and aphids, and treats apple scab and powdery mildew.It works by smothering the insect or egg, or poisoning them. It will not harm benifcial insects because of the time of year that it is used. Those insects are just not around. Dormant oil works best on fruit trees, roses, high bush cranberry and snowball viburnum. For roses, you can spray the soil to control powdery mildew and black spot. For all shrubs and trees, start spraying from the top and completely drench all the branches and stems. I have used it at my own house on my snowball bushes with great success.It is important to remember that it may damage Amur maple, cedars and junipers. Colorado Blue Spruce can become discoloured. If you use it after the leaf buds are green, those leaves will either die or the edges will turn black. But for the plants mentioned above it is like a miracle spray.I hope you will consider giving this wonderful product a try.
Posted by Tammy Jensen at 12:00 AM 0 Comments

Tuesday, November 05, 2013

Time to sign up for Christmas Craft Classes!

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Wreath Making Class


Come join the fun and make a fresh evergreen wreath decorated with your choice of bows or picks! Made the Danish way with a straw wreath and greens from a Christmas tree!


Cost $25 per person - includes 1 wreath, greens and $10 worth of decorations!

*Extra charge for double sided wreaths is $5.00

*Extra decorations may be purchased


Indoor Centerpiece Class

Create a traditional Danish Style Centerpiece with a candle or an indoor Modern Style Christmas Container in any size or style! Bring the fresh scent of cedar, pine, and balsam into your home! Makes a great hostess gift! Bring your kids along and let them make an affordable mini centerpiece! Fun for the whole family!

Cost -

·         Kid's Mini Container $12 - includes container, greens, and $5 worth of decorations! They will have an assortment of containers to choose from!

·         Traditional Danish Style $18 - includes base, greens, oasis, one candle, and $5 worth of decorations

·         Modern Style Christmas Container - available in a variety of sizes. All prices include the container, greens, and oasis.                         Small - $15 includes $5 in decorations.        Medium - $22 includes $6 in decorations.

Large - $28 includes $8 in decorations.

* There will be a selection of containers to choose from.

*Larger or deluxe containers are available for an additional charge.

*If you bring your own container we will price individually.

Outdoor Container Class

Create a beautiful front door container. We have all the pinecones, berries, branches, and decorations to create a container in your own personal style. Best thing is - you leave the mess with us!


Cost - $58 includes black urn, greens, sand, and $15 worth of decorations! If you reuse your urn from last year you only pay $36!


* Extra decorations can be purchased.

* Larger containers or containers brought from home will be priced individually

* Inserts to put into large containers that cannot be transported are available for a $5- $10 fee. If you need an insert please call us before class with measurements so we can find a suitable insert for you. Make sure you have removed the soil from your container so that the insert can fit inside the pot.






Jensen Nursery and Garden Centre


Christmas Craft Class Schedule


Wed Nov 27           1:00 pm & 6:00 pm                                Wreath Making

Thurs Nov 28        1:00 pm & 6:00 pm                                Outdoor Containers

Wed Dec 4              1:00 pm & 6:00 pm                                Wreath Making

Thurs Dec 5                        1:00 pm & 6:00 pm                                Outdoor Containers

Mon Dec 9               1:00 pm                                                       Indoor Centerpieces

Wed Dec 11                        1:00 & 6:00 pm                                        Wreath Making

Thurs Dec 12         1:00 & 6:00 pm                                        Indoor Centerpieces


Limited seating please email to register -

·        Additional Classes times may open up if these times get booked up.

·        Contact if none of the above times work for you. We will take your availability into consideration if we open additional class times.

·        Schedule updates will be posted at









2550 McGillivray Blvd

Winnipeg, Manitoba



Posted by Tammy Jensen at 7:52 AM 0 Comments

Friday, July 06, 2012

Arlene’s Tips for Aphids, Spider Mite and Fungus

Arlene’s Tips for Aphids, Spider Mite and Fungus

1. Aphids – To get rid of Aphids, mix 15ml (1 Tbsp) of liquid soap and 240ml ( 1 cup of Vegetable Oil) together.  Add 2 tsp. of the blend to 3.81 (.83) gal) of water, but don’t use it on squash, cauliflower, or cabbage, which can suffer leaf burn.  Spray the plants with the mixture and follow with a spray of water.  Wait about 15 minutes and then repeat.  If the infestation has just started, this will do the trick, otherwise, you may have to resort to using chemical control.
2. Spider Mite – When it is hot and dry – the spider mite is about!  You may see very time holes in the leaves.  Cucumber is susceptible to the Spider Mite.  Spider Mites do not like cold water so spray down with the hose.  A good test for Spider Mite is to put a white sheet of paper under the branch.  Tap the branch and if you see tiny red dots on the paper, you have a Spider Mite problem.
3. Fungus – Fungus is usually a result of poor air circulation or cold nights when there is moisture on the plant. My home-made solution to fungus is to spray the plant with a solution of 3 Tablespoons of baking soda to a gallon of water.  This must be done on a regular basis.  Never spray your plants when they are dry or when the sun is shining on them, always do it in the early morning, if possible.

Always keep your plants and trees well watered, especially during hot weather and keep them well fertilized.  Never water at night.  If the leaves are wet over-night, this will attract both insects and disease!
Posted by Tammy Jensen at 11:38 AM 0 Comments